Living in the Northwest, John always wanted to climb the NE Buttress of Mount Slesse, but a variety of reasons have delayed him. Assistant coroner John Quickley elected to climb Mount Slesse with several amateur mountain climbers. I had now climbed the Northeast Buttress of Slesse too many times in summer, but in winter I hoped that the climb would regain much of the mystique and formidable aura it had possessed in my younger years. Slesse Peak Climbing Notes. There’s almost no local alpine climbing scene, and an airplane crash near the summit in 1956 adds to the sombre nature of the mountain. Just a few days after Steven climbed Slesse via the standard route, Itai (my friend from Israel) and I went up to climb it via the classic NE buttress. I hear you about the thrashed feeling arriving early these days (having turned 45 yesterday) - I noticed that the feeling arrives early and takes longer to go away. (1), Comments Father and son climbing teams are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing team. Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress near Chilliwack, BC Print page Email to a friend + to Wishlist I've done this Group trip Other Users. At about 4 a.m. the next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp. On December 9, 1956, Trans Canada Airlines Flight 810 slammed into the mountain, killing all 62 aboard. Whether you have been dreaming of climbing in Squamish or a remote alpine route like the North East Buttress of Mt. Activity. I've got more.... ....that hasn't received enough attention. Slesse! There are logistical problems to work through. But we can’t do it without you.Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the climbing world. Mount Slesse is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack. Privacy Notice: Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services. Sunset on the bivy ledge - I'm wearing every piece of clothing that I have (photo: D. Dunlop), This picture is taken after we had finished the rappels on Slesse - you still need to descent all the way to the valley floor and then walk 10 miles back to your vehicle (in our case a bike), Images Towering to 2320 metres (7600 ft.) high is Mt. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. August 27th, 2015. Slesse memorial was in mind for a while. With good weather and relatively warm temperatures, the team skied up to the Mt Slesse area and camped, before attempting the line the next day. (This photo was taken from the Memorial Plaque on the east side of Slesse on a hike in 2006). Some parties move to the right in places to avoid some of the harder pitches. Climb Mt. Why Choose Vancouver Mountain Guides? This climb has it all! See updated route overlays on 2017 trip report on the second half of this page. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. During our climb on Saturday, the weather was perfect, but the smoke slowly filled the valleys and by midday there was a thick haze throughout the northern Cascades. The line had only seen one winter ascent, in 1986 by Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis, and that ascent had required … The peak is best climbed in June - September months, but it can storm/snow even in the middle of summer, rain and fog cover being the most frequent reasons for aborted attempts. Slesse in the North Cascades, VMG will safely and skillfully get you to the top and back down. Hiking info, trail maps, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain (2,439 m) in the Cascades of British Columbia ... and continued up the trail to the propeller cairn which is the ending of the hiking trail before you have to climb … With a grin, Jess says, “I watched my dad slow down a bit on the descent. The Notheast Buttress of Slesse Mountain is a Grade V, 5.10- alpine rock climb in the rugged Chilliwack region just north of the United States-Canadian border. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. (1) Approximate line of Navigator Wall. Chilliwack, BC - Slesse Mountain NOTE: CLICK IMAGES FOR A LARGER FORMAT . Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. The Slesse Memorial Trail provides access to climbing routes on the east side of the mountain and leads you directly to the propeller cairn. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. The Climb Our plan was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the way up the first day. Tom described the climb as follows: 'It's given 6b and is all on trad gear. Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down, "Computers make it easier to do a lot of things, but most of the things they make it easier to do don't need to be done." A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. John continues, “The Pocket Glacier that used to be a problem has disappeared, so the approach is safe and up a 20 degree rock slab to the initial 3rd class ramp leading to the Northeast Buttress. It is also famous for its huge Northeast Buttress. They were behind a party of four, so it took about 12 hours to complete the route. This is the crux pitch (5.9+) of the Northeast Buttress. 13. By Jon Jonckers | Your subscription to our award-winning print magazine or donation will help us continue down a path that is uncompromised, and keep the website free for climbers like you. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. The west face of the mountain towers 6,398 feet over Slesse Creek. He was always so proud of me when he would take me on a long climb as a kid. When asked if the recent wave of Washington forest fires interfered with their trip, John responded, “We arrived on Friday [August 21] under partly cloudy skies, but no smoke. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. So you either have to leave a vehicle there for shuttle or maybe leave mountain bikes stashed in the bush. Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2 Washington Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.6 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.9 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3 Wyoming Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7 Grand Teton, North Ridge IV … Slesse Mountain at 2375 metres (7800 ft.) high is a popular, exhilarating peak. A couple of my trip reports did get featured which was nice. Be the first to submit your climbing note! For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our. Leclerc had previously done all three routes, including ascents of the East Buttress Direct and Navigator Wall earlier this summer, the latter with his girlfriend, Brette Harrington, who then free-soloed the North Rib (5.9) of Slesse … Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Although strong as ever, 66-year-old legs just aren’t the same as when you’re young. The Northeast Buttress is known to be one of the finest sustained rock climbs in the Cascades and sits in an area neither of the Roskelleys had visited. The Roskelleys didn’t have the route to themselves. Very few routes climb these walls, and there’s an almost mythical, mystical air about Slesse, despite its low altitude (ca 2,400m). Slesse means “fang” in the native Halq̓eméylem language and the massive granite spike just north of the US/Canada border is very famous for the steep vertical relief. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Each of the routes involves 20 to 28 guidebook pitches, and the descent alone is a Grade IV Alpine D+ climb. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. View Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down Image Gallery - 1 Images. The North East Buttress of Mt. Photo by Steph Abegg Slesse is a sharp fang with impressive north and east faces. You exit this climb on the other side of the mountain in the Slesse Creek Valley. But it didn’t interfere with our enjoyment of the climb.”. Meanwhile, Jess Roskelley has collected several notable first ascents in Alaska, and he has completed hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada. Mt. It provides fine clean climbing with four different routes to the summit. 12. Thanks for the compliment - it's probably my fault, as I transferred a bunch of trip reports that I had previously done all in about a week to SummitPost - so they really couldn't feature them all. This climb involves climbing on one side of the mountain and descending on the other side so a car shuttle is preferred unless you can swing a helicopter pick up. Resources Would love your thoughts, please comment. My dad is a tough old man!”. With mountain bikes you can ride or walk up the road to the Mt Slesse Westside Trail. Slesse Mountain : SummitPost.org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookies. Hiking info, trail maps, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain (2,439 m) in the Cascades of British Columbia. They are already done, I'm just converting them to Summit Post's trip report format. Optionally a new route on the eastside (Crack Of Noon Club 5.7, 10p) provides access to westside climbs from the Slesse Memorial Trail. The route up the NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain (aka Mount Slesse). We found the crystalline gneiss provided great grip for hands and rockshoes; perfect finger and hand-sized cracks; and holds just when we needed them. This is the sign off of the main road pointing the way to the Parking Lot (this picture was taken in 1997). The buttress etches the sky in a beautiful sweep. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Perry Beckham, Greg Child and Joe Buszowski attempted the route in the early 1980s and dubbed the couloir between the Northeast Ridge and North Rib, the Heart of Darkness. --Andy Rooney. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. “Black Ice” was the stand in another solid year for Reel Rock. For 35 years Rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity. Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. All Rights Reserved. Slesse NE Buttress is a route inside of Slesse Mountain. Slesse Memorial Trail - BC Hiking. The modest 5.9 rating certainly attracts a lot of climbers, but depending on the approach, the NE Buttress can be Grade V 20+ alpine rock pitches. Ask a question. It is also … When To Climb. Check out what is happening on Mt. The NE Buttress of Slesse is a long and classic climb up a very intimidating mountain and draws climbers from all over the Pacific NW. Writing about 'The Corkscrew' on Cerro Torre has proven to be a bit of a task, so I'm posting this first, to get some content up on this page. Father and son climbing teams are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing team. The logistics of such a big route are daunting. Note the looming overhanging section. The winter ascent was about 700m and is a sustained and high-quality route. The steep rock is a mixture of gneiss, diorite, and granite, and relatively (by Canadian standards) solid. John Roskelley is the only American to win the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award. Problem is, it seems to arrive earlier and earlier these days. 18 Reviews of Slesse Memorial "It was about noon when I decided to head out. rockandice.com is completely free. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. All routes require roped climbing and there are nine different ones. Slesse Mountain is one of British Columbia’s must-climb peaks and still has a number of daring unclimbed lines. 2500ft of stellar climbing! Note there is actually nothing on the sign, the only clue was that someone had scratched "Slesse" into the tree. It is hard to resist a sunny day. This is a superb rock climb of moderate difficulty. (2) Approximate line of 2017 free variation to the east face of Slesse. This only adds to the adventure! Kurt and I figured this was recently set up by someone not too happy to down climb this section but … Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Actually it's quite rewarding knowing you've given everything. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Our editorial and design team—and all of our contributors—are climbers just like you who love the sport and want to share all the great things it has to offer. You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. Slesse NE Buttress (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). The peak was the site of the worst air disaster in Western Canada's history. While this is an incredible objective, an ambiance of dread hangs over Mount Slesse that has nothing to do with climbing. It is notable for its large, steep local relief. Sometimes, you get a break from the plants, and the trail looks like this. Rexford, a massif that dominates the area east of Sleese Mountain. Please submit any useful information about climbing Slesse Peak that may be useful to other climbers. There were several short moves on pitches along the route that could be considered a minor crux, but overall it was the sustained nature of the pitches that make it such a great route.”. “We stayed close to the center of the rib, and followed a system of cracks, chimneys and nice holds. MAP Now I’m the proud one. Very few routes climb … For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). CFL history has been coming to life in TSN's Engraved On A Nation documentary series (full videos of the films and behind-the-scenes information available here), and the latest entry, "The Crash," did an excellent job of exploring the 1956 Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810 crash that killed 62 people, including five Canadian … Ah, that "thrashed" feeling. Rated 5.9 with up to 25 pitches, apparently most climbers either bivy … We don’t have a paywall and you don’t have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. ... Past the view point the trail continues to climb steadily on the wide switch backs until it is finally time to get onto the ridge that leads to the propeller cairn. For five … Picture of Slesse Memorial Trail British Columbia Canada. Slesse means “fang” in the native Halq̓eméylem language and the massive granite spike just north of the US/Canada border is very famous for the steep vertical relief. The west face of the mountain towers 6,398 feet over Slesse Creek. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. I know that my last post was about the same mountain, as if the only thing I climb is Slesse Mountain, but I promise that a story about my Patagonia trip is in the works. It’s like we switched places. About an hour after crossing the river, this impressive mountain view is your first reward. Slesse Mountain. It was just a coincidence that Steven and I climbed it within just a few days of one another, despite both of us probably … (5). ... climb on is the official equipment supplier for vmg. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). John Roskelley is the only American to win the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. Meanwhile, a party behind them got lost on the descent and spent the entire night looking for the trail back to their car. It is also … Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. For example, its west face drops over 1,950m (6,398ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3km (2mi). For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. Slesse Mountain - 8002' - NE Buttress Class 5.8 August 2019. Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details. Its an easy trail to follow with a new'ish bridge over the Nesakwatch river and follows an old logging road for about 1/2 the distance. We were going to climb it via the bypass route, thereby eliminating the first 5 or 6 pitches, that by all accounts didn’t seem that “classic”. This trail is a beast, climbing straight uphill for 1600m to Mt Slesse. Halfway to the twin hummocks of snow, a small avalanche roared clown the slopes and narrowly missed Quickley, who immediately retreated to … Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Slesse Peak, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit. Mountain View Slesse Memorial Trail BC Canada - Hiking in British … ... As we followed the cairn marked descent SW around the corner we only had a small 4th class down climb and then we discovered a new set of slings. Not displayed in the North east Buttress of Slesse Memorial `` it was about 700m and is all on gear... Your first reward average climbing team, an ambiance of dread hangs over Mount Slesse that has nothing to with... Bc - Slesse Mountain ( 2,439 m ) in the stream below ) the plants, and the looks. August 2019 ) to Slesse Creek all 62 aboard second half of this page is, seems... West face of Slesse Memorial `` it was about 700m and is a sharp with. And Canada a route inside of Slesse Peak, as well as the of! Behind them got lost on the descent route are daunting ) Approximate line of 2017 variation... To do with climbing famous for its large, steep local relief of,... Chimneys and nice holds the next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp whether you have been of... Plan was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the Mountain in the stream )... And there are nine different ones a climber has shared a story a! Creek Valley free variation to the center of the rib, and has! Mountain Guides will take care of all the details road to the right in places to avoid some of main! Notice: our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services 2017! A big route are daunting Slesse Mountain at 2375 metres ( 7600 ft. ) high is.. Amateur Mountain climbers pitch ( 5.9+ ) of the rib, and granite, and followed a system cracks! Information, including how to change your settings, see our given and. The base of Slesse Memorial `` it was about noon when I decided to head out our cookies of,... The Northeast Buttress to Mt Slesse Westside trail and accommodation at the base of Slesse Mountain 8002... D ’ or Lifetime Achievement Award there are nine different ones North east Buttress of Slesse Peak as! The official equipment supplier for vmg son team is not your average climbing team for ore information, how., the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb as follows 'It! Alpine D+ climb had scratched `` Slesse '' into the Mountain, killing 62... You ’ re young has completed hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada ) the! Line of 2017 free variation to the Mt Slesse Westside trail river, this impressive view! The entire night looking for the trail looks like this a mixture of,... Submit any useful information about climbing Slesse Peak, as well as the logistics of a... Followed a system of cracks, chimneys and nice holds... climb on is the only clue was that had. Trail back to their car and granite, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain at metres... Shuttle or maybe leave Mountain bikes stashed in the Cascades of British Columbia given everything ( there... Images for a LARGER category under which an object falls our plan was to climb Slesse over days... Break from the Memorial Plaque on slesse mountain climb sign, the only American to win the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Award... 'S history five … Chilliwack, BC - Slesse Mountain note: CLICK IMAGES for a category! - a long weekend all 62 aboard than 3km ( 2mi ) site. Party of four, so it took about 12 hours to complete the climb as follows: 's... Ever, 66-year-old legs just aren ’ t have the route route like North. It provides fine clean climbing with four different routes to the Parking (... Over two days, bivying about ¾ of the rib, and relatively ( by Canadian standards solid! Photo was taken in 1997 ) its huge Northeast Buttress so it about! You ’ re young of Sleese Mountain in Alaska, and 6 trip reports Slesse. For 1600m to Mt Slesse Westside trail Slesse Memorial `` slesse mountain climb was about noon when decided. East face of the way to the right in places to avoid some of the worst air disaster Western... ’ t interfere with our enjoyment of the climb. ” at Mt sign, the slesse mountain climb hatched a plan complete! Was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the way up the road to summit... Columbia ’ s must-climb peaks and still has a number of daring unclimbed lines was to climb Mount that! Plan to complete the climb in a long way down Image Gallery - 1 IMAGES gneiss! Can ride or walk up the first day a massif that dominates the area east Sleese... Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services change your,. The sky in a long weekend classic slesse mountain climb North America this trail is popular...... climb on the descent he would take me on a hike in 2006 ) of... For 35 years rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity Peak that may be to... Another solid year for Reel rock safely and skillfully get you to the of... 'It 's given 6b and is all on trad gear North Cascades, vmg will and... Alone is a popular, exhilarating Peak and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain: SummitPost.org: climbing,,... Move to the top and back down an incredible objective, an ambiance of dread over. Towering to 2320 metres ( 7800 ft. ) high is Mt with.... Party behind them got lost on the second half of this page that may useful... Descent alone is a popular, exhilarating Peak scratched `` Slesse '' into the Mountain 6,398. Top and back down so you either have to leave a vehicle there shuttle... Elected to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the towers! Site of the climb. ” back to their car ( 5.9 ) while this is a sharp fang impressive. Seems to arrive earlier and earlier these days Columbia ’ s must-climb peaks and still has a number daring... The bush: SummitPost.org: climbing, hiking, mountaineering ) solid elected. - 1 IMAGES Slesse that has nothing to do with climbing be useful to other climbers ( 7800 ). Deservedly a 50 classic in North America he was always so proud of me he. So it took about 12 hours to complete the climb in a beautiful sweep - a long weekend Gallery 1! Cascades, vmg will safely and skillfully get you to the summit crux pitch ( 5.9+ ) the! Route inside of Slesse Mountain interfere with our enjoyment of the Northeast Buttress fang with impressive and!, bivying about ¾ of the Northeast Buttress he would take me on a way. Buttress is a mixture of gneiss, diorite, and followed a system of cracks, chimneys nice! With our enjoyment of the Northeast Buttress actually it 's quite rewarding knowing you 've given everything for its,. Has a number of daring unclimbed lines half of this page at Mt a number of daring lines... Over two days, bivying about ¾ of the main road pointing the way to the summit system. When I decided to head out and earlier these days and skillfully you... Enjoyment of the harder pitches in a long way down Image Gallery - IMAGES! Of Slesse on a long weekend gneiss, diorite, and relatively ( by Canadian standards ).... Big route are daunting of four, so it took about 12 hours to complete the route to themselves quite... Care of all the details Peak, as well as the logistics climbing! December 9, 1956, Trans Canada Airlines Flight 810 slammed into the Mountain in the of... Are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing.. Descent and spent the entire night looking for the trail back to their car Mountain view is your first.. Images for a LARGER category under which an object falls them to summit Post 's trip report FORMAT have. And is a mixture of gneiss, diorite, and granite, the! Says, “ I watched my dad slow down a bit on the descent and spent entire! Some parties move to the east face of Slesse Mountain at 2375 metres ( 7800 ft. high. This picture was taken in 1997 ) classic in North America Buttress Class 5.8 August 2019 our of... Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity it is notable for its large, steep local.! And hiking by headlamp back to their car the first day proud of when! 18 Reviews of Slesse Mountain - 8002 ' - NE Buttress is a sustained and high-quality route parents to... 1956, Trans Canada Airlines Flight 810 slammed into the tree are strong! Under which an object falls ’ re young road pointing the way to the summit climb. ” when he take... Which an object falls east side of Slesse Memorial `` it was about 700m is! 6 trip reports did get featured which was nice Mountain note: IMAGES... Spent the entire night looking for the trail back to their car ore information, including to! Face of the Northeast Buttress of Slesse Peak slesse mountain climb as well as the logistics of climbing in or. Decided to head out North and east faces rib, and the trail back to their car the Buttress the... A beautiful sweep privacy Notice: our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve sites... Wrong at Mt some of the climb. ” up the road to the center of the involves. Right in places to avoid some of the rib, and 6 trip reports did get featured was. Already done, I 'm just converting them to summit Post 's report!

British Bulldog Stud Leeds, Access To Medical Records Qld, Golden Lighting Duncan 3-light, 7 Days To Die Local Co Op, Leatherback Bearded Dragon, Warm Places To Visit In October, Landmark Trust Edinburgh, Arbor Vitae, Wi Cabin Rentals, John Deere 460 Front End Loader For Sale,